The Slow Boat Experience: Advice for Travellers
From Chiang Mai we wanted to make our way into Laos. There are very limited options to do this:
1) fly ($$$)
2) take a 16 hour ride on a mini-van to Vang Vieng and skip out on Luang Prabang
3) take a two day slow boat into Luang Prabang - we went with this option
Advice #1: book the full excursion from an agency in Chiang Mai because you get better value than if you were to try to do it on your own. We paid 1650 Baht which included a mini-van ride to the border, accommodations the first night, dinner, breakfast, a lunch box and the two day boat ride.
Here is how it goes:
Day one, we were picked up from our guesthouse and driven to the border town of Chiang Khong. Along the way we stopped to see some hot springs (which are great to soak your feet in) and in Chiang Rai to see the amazing White Temple (Wat Rong Khun). We made it to the border where we checked into the guesthouse and were given dinner (included).
Wat Rong Khun, the White Temple
Advice #2: use the guesthouse service to get your Thailand exit stamps. To avoid having to wake up early the next morning and cue up for customs, you can pay 100 baht and your guesthouse will do it for you. They also give you all the necessary paperwork to fill out to get your Laos visa.
Advice #3: go buy provisions for the long boat ride. Bring drinks and snacks because there is limited options on the boat and it is way more expensive.
Day two, we got breakfast and a take-away lunch box (included) for the boat. Our stamped passports were returned but not before being accused of carrying a fake Israeli passport! We were driven to the border and then got on a rickety long boat and crossed the river into Huay Xai, Laos. After a long wait we got our visas which cost $US42 for Canadians and only $US30 for other passport holders.
Advice #4: do not listen to any touts trying to convince you to upgrade to a bus! They will tell you of the horrors of the boat and how expensive the night to come is. Not true! Just stick with the boat, it is an experience. You won't regret it and plus, you've already paid for it.
We were driven to the slow boat and we were off down the Mekong River. There were some very comfortable and reclinable chairs and most benches had cushions. There was even enough floor space to have a great round of UNO. The boat ride was only 6 hours (the aforementioned touts claim it takes 10 hours).
How many white people can you fit in one boat?
Advice #5: make friends, it will make the time go by faster. Sit beside the guy with the guitar and join the sing along or bring cards/games. The slow boat can be lots of fun!
We arrived in Pak Beng and were whisked away to a great guesthouse. All the guesthouses cost 200 baht and we had the cheapest beer to date. Again, the same touts promised rooms no less than 400 and expensive food. The only down side is that electricity shuts off around 11pm so the whole town is dead. It is a good excuse to get an early night.
Day three, we got breakfast and some more food for the boat (the baguette sandwiches are cheap and taste great). Then it was back on the boat. The second boat was a tighter squeeze but we got the floor where we read, slept and played games. We were on the boat for 7.5 hours but with the beautiful scenery and great company the time went by fast. We arrived in Luang Prabang with high spirits.
Views of the Mekong River
In conclusion: slow boat = good times
Chiang Mai, a city not to be missed
Chiang Mai is a city that is not hard to fall in love with. The lack of ladyboys, touts and noise streets is a plus but the friendly Thai and the chill out atmosphere is what makes this city of the north of Thailand and great place to visit.
Our exploratory visit started by getting some wheels. As the city's main attractions are quite spread out we decided that a scooter would be ideal as there is some big slopes that will take a lot of effort.
The first stop was the famous temple on top of the hill called Doi Suthep. I think this is a must-see temple. It is very nice inside with lots of people praying at the different Buddhas. We actually stopped at one of this rooms where a monk was doing some blessings. I did like the locals and got on my knees in front of him with my arm extended. He sprayed some "holy" water on me followed by some prayers and continued to tie a white bracelet on my wrist. I didn't understand what he said but he probably converted me into a rare combination of Buddhist-Jew.
I think I was just converted!
With the scooter we also visit the ancient city of Wang Kun Kan, believed to be the foundation of Chiang Mai. We also went to the town of Bo Sang, a handicraft area where they do wood carving and umbrella making.
A Thailand visit would not be complete if we didn't take a cooking class. We selected the Siam Rice Cooking School. We got to visit a local market and cooked seven different dishes of our choice. Yep, I got to prove myself that I am not a lost case in the kitchen!
Enjoying my creations
We felt adventurous so we signed up for a two day trek. The trek consisted of hiking through the jungle to get to some isolated hill tribes, elephant riding, bamboo rafting and water rafting. The only part of the tour that I was not thrilled about is when we went to visit the Karen "long neck" tribe. These people were waiting for us in a market style huts. They all wanted us to buy stuff from them. It sort of felt like a human zoo. We thought it would be more like them showing us their lifestyle but it was nothing like that.
Karen "Long neck" village
Our tour concluded on Halloween so what better way to finish our night than getting dressed up and making fools of ourselves. All the guys from our tour group dressed up as ladyboys and we made cat calls to all those cute guys passing by.
I love you long time.
It seems to happen a lot that we arrive in a town not knowing of the upcoming festivities. In this case we got to Chiang Mai for the Loi Krathong Festival. Here people lunch their lanterns in a hot balloon fashion. The sky is filled with these lanterns for 3 nights! It is quite the party.
Lantern getting ready for some air time